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Post by expertsetup on Dec 4, 2006 10:55:53 GMT -5
Thanks for the report gmoon, I may have never found the drive check code without it.  . Let me know if you cant get the control issue sorted out, mabey I can patch another version for you to try.
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Post by gmoon on Dec 4, 2006 11:19:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the report gmoon, I may have never found the drive check code without it.  . Let me know if you cant get the control issue sorted out, mabey I can patch another version for you to try. I'm not sure why my setup would work any differently than a std switch JS. I know from writing the ADCRD code that some Hummers' ADCs don't need to be initialized (mine) and some do (David's.) But that wouldn't seem to be the issue, as you were having problems also (addressed on your end by switching on drive.) Anyway--don't sweat it. Hopefully others can test it as well. I've got plenty to play with.
[EDIT] For folks not conversant with the userport, the comment about the ADC is just speculation regarding whether the ADC might kick in randomly, as it shares lines 0-2 with the UJS.
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Post by gmoon on Dec 5, 2006 19:04:30 GMT -5
Krackout has a bug here--if you change the bat side to 'left', it cycles through dozens of screens, but each for only about a second. You can launch the ball (sometimes) but it freezes almost immediately.
Once it returned to the setup screen, but another time it just locked up.
Works OK on the right (default side.) Cool game--anyone know how to move the selections on the setup screen? I'd like to turn the music on.
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Post by expertsetup on Dec 6, 2006 3:19:28 GMT -5
Krackout has a bug here--if you change the bat side to 'left', it cycles through dozens of screens, but each for only about a second. You can launch the ball (sometimes) but it freezes almost immediately. Once it returned to the setup screen, but another time it just locked up. Works OK on the right (default side.) Cool game--anyone know how to move the selections on the setup screen? I'd like to turn the music on. Wow thats a real wild one there, I checked it out and it's quite unplayable with bat side on left.  The music should only take a fire button click to toggle from off to on. Up and down joystick to change which option is selected. Do you get peek(56577) = 255 from basic with joystick attached? I know the compare for some games (commando, krackout, etc) fail to mask all the unused bits out. It may be important for some games to insure the default state of the user port is 255. Did you get Spyhunter to work for you? The bug was preventing it from even running so if you could play at all I would have expected the controls to work fine. I haven't had any problems with the control of this game just the lockup at decrunch due to the drive check.
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Post by gmoon on Dec 6, 2006 9:35:17 GMT -5
Do you get peek(56577) = 255 from basic with joystick attached? I know the compare for some games (commando, krackout, etc) fail to mask all the unused bits out. It may be important for some games to insure the default state of the user port is 255. That's an excellent point. This may be the source of the spotty problems I've been having--if the games don't bother to maskout the high three bits. Thanks! Actually, I'm fairly sure they are NOT set. The reason is simple--until now most of the UPort projects I've done have utilized the high 5 bits, connected via ribbon cable to a pin header. When I added the other 3 bits, I left the high five connected together and they (the 'unused' three also) are plugged into the AVR. Why cut the five pins apart and have three separate headers for one I/O byte? Since the default state of AVR pins is high-Z, I figured the DTV pullups would set the other bits to default. But I bet I haven't bothered masking out when setting PORTC on the AVR, since it wasn't effecting the testing gameplay. Since many games & demos were working fine, I didn't research the 'default' state of a JS port. Kind of a dumb error on my part  . I will check it tonight (I bet SpyHunter will work then, too.)
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Post by gmoon on Dec 6, 2006 21:05:23 GMT -5
Well, this was a partial fix--setting the JS unused bits, Krackout now allows me to configure the game from the JS (even the RESET worked.)
But Spyhunter is just the same (and I used the version from the #3 D64 this time, incase I had a bad file.) Random movement, continuous fireing.
Tried others from this collection (disk #3): Pitfall worked remarkably well, I'll enjoy this retro classic.
Track & Field worked, with a little fussing with the function keys. The title banner was always corrupted, about 2/3 covered with a repeated char graphic. From what little I played, it's not for an accel--JS used as a repetitive switch isn't easy (or fun) with this device.
Commando worked better than I had hoped w/accel (but still very challenging to control.) I'll be back....
IK is one of those 8-bit games which depends on lightning-fast and exacting JS switching, and probably isn't a great choice for an inertial controller. Still, it was working.
I've commented on MSPacman before, that works really well. ----------------- These comments are somewhat based on my own peculiar setup--Let's hear from some other Hummer gamers...
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Post by David Murray on Dec 6, 2006 21:19:51 GMT -5
Spyhunter has always done this to me. I used to play it on the hummer using the keyboard (it was even inclded on my first pre-made hummer flash filesystem) What is weird is that sometimes it does it, and other times it doesn't. But it can't be related to the user-port because even the non userport-fixed version exhibits this behavior.
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Post by gmoon on Dec 6, 2006 22:27:41 GMT -5
Good to know about Spyhunter, sounds like the original crack is suspect.
It would be great to have a road game like Pole Position or Pit Stop, though.
(OK, request time: Marble Madness)
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Post by expertsetup on Dec 8, 2006 11:23:51 GMT -5
Gmoon thanks again for all the feedback. Sounds like your good to go with the extra bits set. It's also good to know that there is a known issue with Spuhunter.  One of my favorite driving games from the arcade would have to be Turbo, too bad there was never a conversion of that one. I am sure I can get one of the driving games available to work on the hummer, I'll put one in the queue.
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Post by diroga on Dec 19, 2006 23:43:47 GMT -5
Does the C64 joystick use switches or pots? If it uses switches then I could make myself a joystick. Does some one have a schematic? If not would some one mind making one. I do not have a C64 JS and I could not find much of anything on ebay. I will check my local thrift stores but I doubt I will find a C64 JS. I have seen other 9 pin D sub JS before, would they be hackable to comparability?
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Post by shadyman on Dec 20, 2006 0:59:34 GMT -5
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Post by diroga on Dec 20, 2006 3:37:44 GMT -5
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Post by pyrofer on Dec 20, 2006 4:29:18 GMT -5
Both C64, Atari sticks are almost identicle, you could also try Amiga, Atari ST, CD32, CDTV pads/sticks as well. Even Sega Megadrive pads (older 3 button ones are best) work. I run my DTV with a cheap megadrive pad from ebay.
There is also a PIC16F84 circuit you can make to interface a Playstation pad to the DTV (and any of the above systems!) if you are that way inclined.
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Post by gmoon on Dec 20, 2006 8:56:03 GMT -5
Rickard seems to have his pins swapped around compared to David's. Rickard's pin 1 is left while David's is up. I figure if i don't find a Atari or C64 JS @ a store I get a serial game pad, rewire it and by pass the logic chip. the JS uses GND only and no +5v? just a double check. Yep. High (open) is off. Neither reference is correct. David has pins 6-9 mislabeled for female (same order for the front of both male/female.) The male pic is correct. Richard's pic has the direction pins wrong, but the GND & Fire pin correct (for the front of female.)
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Post by MadModder on Dec 20, 2006 13:34:35 GMT -5
This is the correct pin names: (pin number, signal name, explanation) 1, Joy A0/B0, UP 2, Joy A1/B1, DOWN 3, Joy A2/B2, LEFT 4, Joy A3/B3, RIGHT 5, POT AY/BY, VERTICAL POT / BUTTON 3 6, Button A/B, FIRE / BUTTON 1 7, +5V 8, GND 9, POT AX/BX, HORISONTAL POT / BUTTON 2
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